Silab has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient developed specifically for menopausal skin. The French manufacturer is positioning the launch around a mechanism it says it identified through a new modelling study of menopausal skin: a deficiency in ferritinophagy, the process that ensures the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs.
According to Silab, this deficit is what links menopause to accelerated skin ageing, because the reduced release of iron leaves cells short of bioavailable iron.
Iron release and what Silab calls metallo-aging
The company states that the ferritinophagy deficiency observed during menopause induces a lack of bioavailable iron, which leads to premature ageing of the skin — a phenomenon it terms metallo-aging. UV radiation is said to amplify the effect, since UV favours the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, producing a massive and uncontrolled release of iron and, in turn, significant oxidative stress.
Metallomia is designed to act on both sides of that picture. Silab says the ingredient relaunches ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, facilitating the provision of iron and restarting the main epidermal functions. By reducing iron/ferritin complexes, it is also claimed to limit oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV.
Results reported by the manufacturer
On the basis of this targeted mechanism, Silab reports that metallo-aging is significantly reduced. The outcomes it describes in volunteers are:
- From 14 days, the skin of Caucasian volunteers is described as revitalised, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion.
- In Asian volunteers, pigment spots are reported to be significantly reduced after 28 days.
- Applied by Caucasian volunteers before UV exposure, the ingredient is said to prevent lipid peroxidation, with the appearance of redness limited within hours after exposure.
These findings are presented as company results; the announcement does not include independent peer-reviewed data.
Marshmallow root and a traced French supply chain
For Metallomia, Silab turned to the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages, and set up a traced supply chain with French partners. The supply has been validated against the criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To make use of the root's mucilage content, the company developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Positioning and formulation
Metallomia is a patented active ingredient recommended in all care products intended for menopausal skin, at a dose of 0.5 to 2%. It is available in aqueous solution and described as easy to formulate. Silab states that it complies with biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128, and meets international cosmetics regulations covering Europe, the USA, China and Japan.